is the power wire audio guys use any good?

[51]

looking for opinions on that 1 gauge or bigger power wire that the audio guys use? im rewiring my mobile and i have always used 0 gauge welding cable but i was wondering if anybody has experience with the cheaper audio store stuff. a few things i notice that i don't like is 1. the see thru colors are kinda dumb, 2. they seem to be made up of four or five individual twisted sections of wire twisted into one big wire(if that makes any sense) instead of fine individual strands twisted into one wire.. 3. the outer jacket looks like cheap plastic which can melt, cut and nick very easily. is the stuff made overseas? super high power audio amps are ran off the stuff so i know it works but i need a little more than that. i really do want to try it because of cost but not if its crap.




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[petriach]

I've used some 4 gauge of stuff like that,and it does pretty well. Mine was rated to 105 degrees celsius,and the outer jacket held up pretty well,it's thicker than most of what you find in most auto parts stores' 4 gauge.

However,if you buy the cheapest wire you can of that kind,expect some disappointment.

The colors you'll have to live with Or use to code your wiring better.

[Delivery Man]

If your going to use audio cable just stick with the good brand stuff i.e. monster, scoshe, phoenix, none of that walmart stuff that comes altogether for 20 bucks. your system will only be as good as the stuff you wire it with too!

[51]

im just gonna stay with my 0 gauge welding cable.

['Doc]

'51',
I think that using the welding cable is a pretty good idea. It's made to withstand more 'abuse' than the 'audio' wire and is larger (the biggy = size). You very seldom have too large a 'DC' power line until it's just too much trouble to install it. (And that 'trouble' to first install it means that you probably won't ever have to run another one to power other things later.)
If you combine that large power cable with a power distribution box/panel/whatever in an inconspicuous spot, it's even easier to add stuff.
- 'Doc

[weatherman]

Welding cable is all I ever use. Can't justify the high cost for colorful coating.

[murdoc]

Cheap "audio guys" power cable!!! That's a new one by me!!! I use all Monster Cable stuff 1/0 gauge and while it is mega expensive ($6.00 per ft.) it IS super durable and can take the heat for sure... The Jacketing is in fact much more durable than welding cable at nearly 3 times as thick... Not to mention most all "audio guys" cable is tinned copper wire which is much better suited for automotive apps. than bare copper...

Is it worth it??? Yup...

[Deleted User 14541]

I used the car audio power wire because a picked it up dirt cheap from a local pawn shop. I can see how the welding cable would be mare durable but I've had no issues.

[THANATOPSIS]

Most car audio wire, from any brand I've used personally, is of fine quality. Its usually thicker because it hhas a higher strand count to make it more flexable and easier to work with. A higher strand count makes wire of the same gauge thicker. Wire gauge is a measure of the cross-sectional area of conductors, not nominal thickness or strands. More strands allows for more spaces between, thus the wire is nominally thicker.

Many in car audio also use welding wire, most without trouble, but dedcated automotive power wire should be more durable.

The color shouldn't be a major bother since one should have the whole length of the wire protected with something like tech flex or at least split loom. That wires insulation is just that, an insulator. It isn't armor plating. Usually just protecting the "high risk" areas is fine but there is a reason IASCA competition rules require doing so.

[crazy_cooter]

I dont care for the wire either. Use the welding cable, a lot better quality.

[drdx]

I use the welding stuff too, and like it that it blends in under the hood when you run it. The factory look is a plus for me as it doesn't look all ghetto. That colored wire under the hood just looks a little "highschooler installed it in the driveway" to me. I also use that plastic wire conduit over the wire and just acquired a couple of huge plastic 2 piece spiral looking strain reliefs for going through the firewall. I have not looked for the strain reliefs on the market but they came in an old van I bought that was used as a Verizon install van so I'm sure they're a common item to find. No matter the wire, if it gets damaged on the pass-thru you've got trouble.

-drdx

[443 Arizona]

i would think that AWG quality copper would run plenty of amps compared to the imported silver painted string smeltered with boogers and yak hide

[crazy_cooter]

i would think that AWG quality copper would run plenty of amps compared to the imported silver painted string smeltered with boogers and yak hide

HA HA HA HA!!! funny!

[2J-FJ]

Yak hide, that's a new one for me...

And I live in the sticks!

[Crisco]

well at 50buck for fifty feet for zero gauge audio wire on ebay i believe ill use the audio wire I have checked both audio wire and welding cable with an ampmeter and the draw is the same on eithier in my truck.opinions are opinions but facts and measurements are entirely different.

['Doc]

I have no idea where you live, but welding cable isn't $1 per foot here.
- 'Doc

[drdx]

How much is it up there Doc? Down here it was $2.35 per foot I think the last time I bought it for the 2/0 but that has been a while as I don't seem to wear it out. I guess gone are the days 20 years ago when it was 38 cents a foot.

On the audio wire, fifty feet is a lot of cable and if you have to pay shipping too, what does it add up to per foot? That may be a deal if it passes the same flow and you need that much. I only ran about 15 feet or so on my current mobile but there are always other projects in the future and that stuff is always handy to have around.

-drdx

[Crisco]

I know it sounds crazy believe me i know but look on ebay for zero gauge wire it was 55 dollars for fifty foot with free shipping it is a great deal and it works well i run a twelve pill with it with very little voltage drop.

['Doc]

drdx,
I'd have to check prices, it's been a little over a year since I bought any. I remember the total cost for about 20 feet was less than $20 and that included a couple of 'ends' for that size of cable. I think I only used maybe 10 feet of the cable and one 'end', the rest was for 'in case'. (No, it's not for sale, sorry. )
- 'Doc

[drdx]

I have plenty, was just wondering. Reading back up through the thread, I think we're all talking about different sizes too, and that matters. Mine was the 2/0, the 50 for 50 stereo stuff was 0, and I'm not sure your size, but I'm sure the welding cable pricing is probably comparable Doc, as I'm just to your south a few hours. And, every place is different on their pricing. I went to the closest place to me that had it, a welder supply house, and since I don't have that welder look I'm sure I didn't get the best pricing to be had. The guy did wink and yanked a couple of extra feet off for me so that was nice. Maybe I was paying double and the extra yank was part of the show, but I get my kegerator C02 there too and they're the cheapest in town, so who knows.

-drdx

['Doc]

It all boils down to how much current the stuff can carry and how good the insulation is. In most cases welding cable is 'over-kill', but, having too much ability is certainly better than not having enough.
Cost is also a factor (naturally!), and welding cable happened to be the 'best' option I could find locally. If you have some other source of adequately sized cable/wire then you should certainly consider it!
- 'Doc

[phantom 409]

I used no 4 20ft jumper cables soldered copper ends on came from battery to 100amp breaker under hood to Texas Star 667v to cobra 29 lx seems to be working fine.

[MDYoungblood]

I am using one run of 4awg for my power inverter (110vac@1000watts), two 8awg for my amp (300 watt), and one 10awg for the radio . I purchased amplifier kits (stereo not rf) from a local radio shop, you should read the packages , some include the insulation as part of the wire size . Mine are all fused at the battery and at the equipment . I also used spiral wrap to make for a neat installation under the hood . Buy some extra terminals and use the extra wire for ground strapping .

73

Greg

[MuskyHunter]

That car audio cable these days is **Censored**, Chinese and junk. Welding wire is the only full copper and proper heat rated jacket you will get these days. Try soldering some of the fancy audio cable and you might see impurities leach out that will prevent solder from flowing like it should. I have found several brands that are tinned steel, heck it might not even be tin. Even coax within the last year has gone to steel braid or some kind of metal that will not take solder. I have also seen larger resistance or voltage drops with this cable. I've found 8 gauge welding cable that had same performance as the monster 1/0, which was also smaller than actual 1/0. More like 2 gauge. There are still audio brand wire that's good, but it usually doesn't have the fancy colors that sell, so look out. You can never go wrong with welding cable.