RF Bonding

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Dirge
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RF Bonding

#373893

Post by Dirge »

I want to start rf grounding my unibody mobile. I'm waiting on some 1 inch braided copper to arrive.

Plans are:
2 straps on the hood
2 straps on the trunk
1 strap for each door
3 straps on the exhaust system
2 straps for each bumper

I've read where some guys go even further and throw straps on the engine, tranny, radiator, and suspension parts. Is that overkill or worthwhile?
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MDYoungblood
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Re: RF Bonding

#373897

Post by MDYoungblood »

Hello Dirge,
Welcome back. What you have listed sounds good to me, really only need one on the exhaust behind the converter, the engine ground will take care of anything before it. The hood and trunk you can use two along with one on each door. I've added a strap to my engine, I did that to help with any noise it may produce, the transmission is bolted to it so that isn't needed but wouldn't hurt. Never did the radiator or suspension, those parts are shielded by the hood and body. What make vehicle are you working on?

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Dirge
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Re: RF Bonding

#373900

Post by Dirge »

Nissan Sentra. The windshield wipers are the noisiest part of the car.
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Re: RF Bonding

#373901

Post by Lost Ram »

Hello,
Be sure to remove the paint where you bolt/mount these connections. Normally a can of matching spray paint can be had at the auto parts store and applied when you are done if wanted.
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Re: RF Bonding

#373903

Post by MDYoungblood »

I use internal star lock washers instead of grinding off the paint, the teeth on them dig into the metal through the paint and a dab of dielectric grease keeps the area from rusting. For the wiper motor you could try a couple of disc capacitors across the leads to clean up the noise.

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Dirge
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Re: RF Bonding

#373904

Post by Dirge »

I've read that some newer cars have plastic or fiberglass radiator mounts. My car doesn't but the continuity tester says it is floating, so maybe the paint is blocking the electron flow. Turns out the hood, front fenders, and trunk are also floating. However, the doors are checking okay (but strapping them would be better).
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Re: RF Bonding

#373905

Post by MDYoungblood »

Check the hood and trunk lid with a magnet to make sure it's metal, Nissan used a lot of carbon fiber/fiberglass parts on their bodies. If they are non metal a single small ground strap would help bleed off any static buildup on the surface of the material. The hood and trunk hinges used a plastic bushing which will isolate it from ground, even the hood/trunk locks use plastic bushings and the trunk has a rubber seal.

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Dirge
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Re: RF Bonding

#373930

Post by Dirge »

MDYoungblood wrote: ...and a dab of dielectric grease keeps the area from rusting.
I assume the dielectric grease goes on top of the finished connection and not in between the parts.
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Re: RF Bonding

#373931

Post by bluemeanie »

Also a little dab of RTV of the color of your choice works too.
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Re: RF Bonding

#373932

Post by MDYoungblood »

I put a dab between the washer and paint, washer and bolt, it will not interfere with making good contact. You can do like blue said, just check to make sure it's non corrosive silicone.

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Dirge
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Re: RF Bonding

#373933

Post by Dirge »

Well, I got the hood, front fenders, and trunk done. Don't know if it helps the CB but the key fob works a lot farther away!
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Re: RF Bonding

#373934

Post by Deleted User 14541 »

Dirge wrote:Well, I got the hood, front fenders, and trunk done. Don't know if it helps the CB but the key fob works a lot farther away!
:lol: Looks like you killed two birds with one stone. :lol:
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Re: RF Bonding

#373939

Post by MDYoungblood »

Now that is interesting, might have to try it on my Jeep because the "fob" doesn't work well at all on it.

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southwind

Re: RF Bonding

#373941

Post by southwind »

:bounce: Your radiator is probably floating in metal brackets ( 2 upper/2 lower ) with rubber grommets for insulation. Strange about the key FOB, you always learn something on this site. Good luck.......... :cheers:

David g.
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