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Alternator Problems please help.!!!!

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Alternator Problems please help.!!!!

Post by Cain64 » Sunday, 11 January 2009, 19:29 PM

Today my alternator went bad so ran over to autozone and got a new one no big deal. Get home take the old one off and all hook it all back up and start it up immediately the battery light comes on and the voltage frog the battery drops from a steady 12.3 to 10 when i start it then goes back up. So my alternator is not recharging it is brand new all connections seem fine. Anybody have any ideas?
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Post by Cain64 » Sunday, 11 January 2009, 19:53 PM

BUMP this is URGENT.
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Post by tonyhatchetman » Sunday, 11 January 2009, 19:56 PM

the battery is junk get a new one fast???????????
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Post by The Bull » Sunday, 11 January 2009, 19:59 PM

Thats what i told him!!

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Post by drdx » Sunday, 11 January 2009, 20:31 PM

Bad Battery. Are you sure the original alternator was bad? -drdx
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Post by jessejamesdallas » Sunday, 11 January 2009, 21:09 PM

Battery has a dead cell...Could be from a number of things ranging from age, to cold weather, to wore out alternator, to running a linear amplifier that required more amps to run it, than your alternator was able to keep up with! :wink:

Bottom line...Get a New battery before you burn-up another alternator!
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Post by drdx » Sunday, 11 January 2009, 21:19 PM

I had that same deal not long ago. I swore it was an alternator. I had recently changed the battery from an old regular style battery to a brand new Optima at the same time I replaced an old battery harness that had been corroded, so everything was all nice and new, and the connectors looked fine. The vehicle would start slowly and ran rough for the first few minutes then it cleared up. Come to find out later, the battery had insufficient voltage, and after a few minutes the alternator was chargin it enough to make all of the electronics, TPS, etc., happy enough to run smooth. I had to finally quit believing the dash meter and put a real volt meter on it myself and found that out. Sometimes the most obvious items are the culprit. -drdx
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Post by jessejamesdallas » Sunday, 11 January 2009, 21:27 PM

drdx wrote:I had that same deal not long ago. I swore it was an alternator. I had recently changed the battery from an old regular style battery to a brand new Optima at the same time I replaced an old battery harness that had been corroded, so everything was all nice and new, and the connectors looked fine. The vehicle would start slowly and ran rough for the first few minutes then it cleared up. Come to find out later, the battery had insufficient voltage, and after a few minutes the alternator was chargin it enough to make all of the electronics, TPS, etc., happy enough to run smooth. I had to finally quit believing the dash meter and put a real volt meter on it myself and found that out. Sometimes the most obvious items are the culprit. -drdx
Yep...a alternator won't charge a low battery...It will only "Maintain" a low battery... :wink:
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Post by Cain64 » Monday, 12 January 2009, 6:07 AM

ok, thanks guys ill go get it checked today.
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Post by Cain64 » Monday, 12 January 2009, 7:00 AM

Are you guys sure it is the battery, if that was all i had to do then i just wasted 120$ on a new alternator. And now i have to buy a 100$ battery. Im gonna go get it checked hope its fixed soon.
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Post by drdx » Monday, 12 January 2009, 7:51 AM

Take the old alternator to autozone and they'll check it for free. -drdx
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Post by Cain64 » Monday, 12 January 2009, 7:53 AM

they put the thing on it and said that it was bad. And said that ineeded to replace it so i did. They did not say anything about the battery.
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Post by drdx » Monday, 12 January 2009, 8:02 AM

I guess the both could have been bad- a bad battery that lead to the death of an alternator. I had a battery short once, last year, and it took out the alternator. It was easy to tell, one minute I was cruising along singing to my Neil Diamond greatest hits, staring at that polaroid of linx I have propped up over my speedometer, the next it was total darkness, no power steering, no power brakes, and I coasted all the way home, due to my lucky location at the time of death. -drdx
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Post by 4 cycle » Monday, 12 January 2009, 8:37 AM

You may have gotten a bad replacement alt. .If they checked the old one and it was bad, it was bad and you got a bad replacement it happens sometimes!! Once the car is started you con take the battery out of the car if the alt is good it will run with no battery. NOT RECOMMENDED BUT IT WILL RUN.
Last edited by 4 cycle on Monday, 12 January 2009, 9:29 AM, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by djrebel236 » Monday, 12 January 2009, 8:59 AM

i had alternator problems near the end of the summer too, it was my alternator, we just had it rebuilt and now it runs like a purrfect kitten...Dj
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Post by Cain64 » Monday, 12 January 2009, 20:34 PM

I had the alt. checked at the store and theb attery both passed with flying colors. So im trying to figure out whats going on, will take the batt out whil runnin tomorrow.
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Post by jessejamesdallas » Monday, 12 January 2009, 21:39 PM

Something else you can check...I don't know, you didn's say, but if your truck/or car, has a external voltage regulator, that could also be a problem.... :wink:
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Post by 4 cycle » Monday, 12 January 2009, 22:52 PM

YOU DONT HAVE TO REMOVE BATTERY JUST DISCONNECT A CABLE BUT DONT LET THE CABLE TOUCH ANYTHING WHILE THE CAR/TRUCK IS RUNNING OR YOU WILL SHORT OUT EVERYTHING,AND THEN YOU WILL HAVE BIGGER PROBLEMS!! IF ITS JUST THE ALT. LIGHT MAT BE LOOSE BELT. DICONNECTING BATTERY WHILE ENGINE IS RUNNING IS NOT LIKE I MENTIONED IN MY OTHER POST A GOOD IDEA IF ALT. AND BATTERY CHECKED OUT GOOD THERE IS SOMETHING ELSE GOING ON SO DICONNECTING THE BATTERY WHILE ITS RUNNING WONT PROVE ANYTHING LOOK FOR LOOSE CORODED OR BROKEN WIRES.

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Post by Turbo-T » Tuesday, 13 January 2009, 5:47 AM

First off Idiotzone alternators are hit or miss, but usually tend to be junk. Junk because they're built in Mexico.

Take a voltage reading at the batt with the engine at rest. (NOT running)

Then start the engine. The batt voltage should go up 1-2 volts.

A charged batt should read 12.4 volts at rest, 13.4-14.4 with engine running. It may read less if there's less volts in batt.

As long as you see a 1-2 volt increase with engine running as opposed to not running then it's most likely charging. It takes voltage to make voltage.

If not charging, make sure the pig tail to the alt has a 12 volt source. If it doesn't the alt may not "turn on".

Some alt's rely on that 12 volt source in the pigtail to "turn on" or excite the alternator, to make it start charging.
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Post by backwoods » Tuesday, 13 January 2009, 11:22 AM

Well I see the goat in you avatar. Some Dodges rely on the computer to control the altertator. A good starter shop will be able to help you without buying a new computer. What model and I can check if that could be the problem.

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Post by Cain64 » Tuesday, 13 January 2009, 14:19 PM

i have a 1997 isuzu rodeo, just really like dodges.
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Post by backwoods » Tuesday, 13 January 2009, 15:03 PM

OK it has a int reg so that is out. Chack and see, some imports have a fused charge lead to the battery. Bad alt could have blown it.

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Post by 4 cycle » Tuesday, 13 January 2009, 15:56 PM

YOUR ON YOUR OWN WITH THE JAP CRAP!!

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Post by Cain64 » Tuesday, 13 January 2009, 17:21 PM

Well just to let you know it is not JAP it is GM manufactures 100%

So returned the new alt. got my old one back and installed it and its working and recharging now high power but recharging. So the one had was bad some how. Im gonna order one from our sponosor and go bigger, mine is only 60 or 90amp.
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Post by Turbo-T » Wednesday, 14 January 2009, 5:32 AM

Glad to hear you got it working.

It's typical for Idiotzone alternators to be trouble from the start. Especially if it's a rebuilt one. You want either a remanned one or a new one.

But 60-90 amps....I would think it would require a higher alternator than that. Shoot the one in my 87 Regal turbo is a 120 amp, my 75 Nova I think took a 63 amp.
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Post by Cain64 » Wednesday, 14 January 2009, 6:00 AM

ya its nothing too powerful, well the one i got was a rebuilt but it seems every one that has my car has had problems with rebuilts in the rodeos, i had remanufactured. And there is some circuit that is missing that doesnt let ti work right. Any body have any luck finding maybe a 100 amp or 120 amp for my car i have not had any luck.
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Post by drdx » Wednesday, 14 January 2009, 6:08 AM

4 cycle wrote:YOUR ON YOUR OWN WITH THE JAP CRAP!!
I WISH I had more "jap crap". It sure seems better than the Chinese stuff I see all over, in every aspect of merchandise. I'm guessing this guy has an American made radio, American made microwave, and all American electronics. I don't know if that's possible these days unless he talks on a Tentec(still made in tennessee, I saw their ad this month, nice radios and amplifiers to use on this band) or maybe a Heathkit, watches an old Curtis Mathis, and has maybe a 30 year old Litton microwave.

Oh well, many of the "Jap" cars are made here in America these days and the Isuzu rodeo was made in both countries. The ones with the Vin beginning with a 4 are domestically produced "jap" brands, and the ones that start with a J are japanese. I'm guessing that Izuzu has the chevy 2.8 or its later version, the 3.1. No, I'm not a Googler, I worked for Isuzu for years. Cain, yours probably starts with "4S1...." and I think was made in Indiana.

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Post by 4 cycle » Wednesday, 14 January 2009, 8:17 AM

The "JAP CRAP" remark was ment as a JOKE! Didnt mean to offend, glad you got it going "Cain64". You could try ADVANCED AUTO PARTS OR talk to some of the auto repair shops in your area and find out where they get there parts from, getting a higher amp Alt. shouldnt be too diffocult. ( BUT I DO BUY AND USE AMERICAN MADE PRODUCTS WHEN EVER POSSIBLE! )

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Post by Cain64 » Wednesday, 14 January 2009, 14:22 PM

well thank you Dr. DX yes mine was made in indiana with the 3.2 liter motor. Ya im getting at here is that all the rebuilds seem to leave something out of the new ones and the isuzu rodeo does niot like it. If anybody can find me an alternator that is for my car but in a higher ampergae would bne greately appreciated.
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RE Alternator Problems please help.!!!!

Post by lonewolf1971 » Saturday, 17 January 2009, 20:21 PM

Cain64 wrote:Today my alternator went bad so ran over to autozone and got a new one no big deal. Get home take the old one off and all hook it all back up and start it up immediately the battery light comes on and the voltage frog the battery drops from a steady 12.3 to 10 when i start it then goes back up. So my alternator is not recharging it is brand new all connections seem fine. Anybody have any ideas?
did you charge the battery before starting? also the alt only puts out 2 volts more than the battery has. also depending on the car the alt doesnt charge at idle :D

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Post by The Bull » Saturday, 17 January 2009, 20:25 PM

Word of advice when changing a alt. unhook the battery because you can blow a part of the alt

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Post by Cain64 » Saturday, 17 January 2009, 21:36 PM

What are you talking about the battery hass to be aatached after you install the alt. How else does it charge John! jk you get the part for the 10K
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Post by The Bull » Saturday, 17 January 2009, 21:39 PM

no you un hook the battery before you put in the alt or it will blow a diode in the alt and not work

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Post by Cain64 » Saturday, 17 January 2009, 21:42 PM

O well ya i know that you unhook the ground. cancelling the electric current to not be able to complete
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Post by jessejamesdallas » Saturday, 17 January 2009, 22:37 PM

Cain64 wrote:What are you talking about the battery hass to be aatached after you install the alt. How else does it charge John! jk you get the part for the 10K
If your battery is dead, or low, it can damage your new alternator is what he's getting at...A alternator will not charge your low or dead battery...It only "Maintains" the battery. So if your battery is low to begin with, the alternator will just maintain it at Low. The Volts may go up to 12, but the amps will still be low, and put a strain on the alternator till it Fry's itself again...

Charge (with a battery charger) or replace your battery...

If when you first hook everything up, and you hook a voltage meter up to the battery, and with the motor running you see a voltage of 13.5v's, but then when you Key-up your radio the voltage drops to 12v's or less, this could be a sign of a low battery.

Another option to fix the problem, would be to add a second battery. This will give you double the amount of amps to draw power from. Both battery's will need to be the same amp rating so that they will stay charged equally.

As for as finding a larger Amp alternator...try looking at Alterstart
www.4alterstart.com
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Re: Alternator Problems please help.!!!!

Post by rbodenbender » Monday, 01 February 2010, 18:21 PM

just a smll note to add here........disconnecting the battery while the car is running is a bad idea. newer cars are extremely sensitive to voltage spikes, and removing a critical part of the electrical system (IE battery) while the engine is running is asking for a power spike to the ECM or anything else. it is not a good idea to do that with todays modern cars. now, on a 69 chevelle with a 396 is a different story. just dont try things like that. modern cars have the OBD II diagnostic computer, and it will just about tell you what color underwear you are wearing. just hook it to the proper scan tool.

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Re: Alternator Problems please help.!!!!

Post by 4 cycle » Tuesday, 02 February 2010, 10:26 AM

You are right,that includes TOYOTA'S electric gas pedal if that is what is really the problem, every thing electric is better I guess, (CRAP). :icon_rolleyes: And I know its not just the JAP CRAP Vehicles!!

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Re: Alternator Problems please help.!!!!

Post by Foxhunter » Tuesday, 02 February 2010, 13:33 PM

4 cycle wrote:You may have gotten a bad replacement alt. .If they checked the old one and it was bad, it was bad and you got a bad replacement it happens sometimes!! Once the car is started you con take the battery out of the car if the alt is good it will run with no battery. NOT RECOMMENDED BUT IT WILL RUN.

I know this post is a little old but still wanted to comment for current viewers and someone possibly experiencing similar difficulties. A year or two ago, my Dad's Ford truck alternator "went south" and gave it up. So he went to the local Advance or Auto Zone and bought a replacement. He opted for the "lifetime" alternator where they would replace it if it went bad during the life of the vehicle.

Well, he went home and installed it that night. Guess what ? The brand new replacement lifetime quality alternator was bad! So, he had to go back and return the alternator for an exchange. They bench tested it first and sure enough it was bad. So they indeed were willing to exchange it for free, no-charge. But, they told him, he just "used up" the lifetime warranty replacement of the alternator. In less than 24-hrs!!! So they wouldn't re-issue him a dated receipt for the 2nd alternator. No more warranty. Not being the type unfortunately to cause a big scene, he just left with it and that was that.

The second alternator worked just fine and is still on the truck. The moral, among other things, is just because something is sparkling new or freshly rebuilt----possibly doesn't mean it is any better than the one it's replacing. Not always anyway, it does happen.

As far as batteries go, I had two batteries being used for my big amplifier finally go bad, developing a short between the plates. A common way to die. While charging, if the caps are all opened and you see one cell "boiling" or bubbling, you have a bad cell and the battery is shot. In that case, the best alternator or battery charger in the world won't help and it's time for a new battery. One of the best tools to quickly diagnose a battery and alternator is a "battery load tester", which will put the battery under load conditions and give a meter reading as to the operational status of the battery. Will also test alternator output and charging rate. I've always used them and couldn't imagine flying blind without one, actually I could but there's nothing like "the right tool for the job".

Just a few things to throw into the mix for consideration by our readers. Hope it helps someone, makes them think of a similar encounter, or gives someone something to go on.


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PS---JJD is right, with cars from the 80's on up, it's a very bad idea to pull the battery cable while the engine is running. It used to be a good and quick test back on older vehicles, but can instantly damage the electronics in vehicles that rely on computers or "brains". Absolutely true, a real concern and risk. The same is true for jump-starting them, another no-no.

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Re: Alternator Problems please help.!!!!

Post by outlaw0814 » Wednesday, 03 February 2010, 6:11 AM

as stated above the a-- zones are junk put in and took out 4 of them in 1 day before one worked properly-- definalely call mech -- he will hook u up with quality -- I got mine from him over two years ago for the gmc pickup and it still as good as when i got it --- like they say u get what u pay for!!!!!!!
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