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ww228kidd 18V project works!

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ww228kidd 18V project works!

Post by linx » Tuesday, 04 December 2007, 18:56 PM

Well, ww228kidd recommended it, and told me how to do it, and I did it today.

My alternator is a 200amp powermaster that makes 14.7 volts.

With adding a 6 volt to the system behind the seat, I am getting 18.4 volts with the truck turned off, and 20.7 volts with the truck running. I was installing some new 4 awg wire today to upgrade from my 8 awg and decided to go ahead and put the 6 volt in line, and the results are just as he said they would be.

If anyone wants some drawings on how to do it themselves, just say so, and we'll post them.

Ultimatly, I have my normal battery hooked up the my trucks charging system like it's supposed to. I have a 4awg wire going from the positive of my 12v battery, to the negative of the 6v battery. I then have the positive of the 6 volt battery going to my amp, and the amp is grounded to a seat bolt. Now, I will have to randomly pull the battery out to charge it, but man, this is one awsome redneck fix to get more watts out of the box.

Thanks ww228kidd for recommending this. This is working awsome. I'm putting 20db on base station buddies of mine 14+ miles away with a 1x4 competition-style amp.

There's a forum member on here named BushHog that works with me that can verify the volt output :)

Just all FYI. Enjoy.
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Post by roadrunner1 » Tuesday, 06 May 2008, 18:09 PM

Well, I have been using this 18 volt setup for 2 to 3 months now and it works awesome! I'm running it on an 8 pill in a 4 cylinder car with a 102 whip and it rocks just like a 12 pill easily all over town. People hear me and can't even talk back to me. :) I have hooked all wires straight to and from the battery setup and not to the seat bolt because I needed to avoid car computer interference. I want to thank linx and ww228kidd for posting the howto info and support.

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Post by jessejamesdallas » Tuesday, 06 May 2008, 18:30 PM

Yeah...It will work. As long as you have a amp that can handle being volted...Only problem I can see, is by having the 6v battery wired to the 12v like that, is when your truck is running, your still going to be sending a 14 volt charge into that 6v battery!

And if you leave it wired in like that all the time, your going to boil the 6v battery to death.

A better way to do it would be to have a separate charging alternator, that has a adjustable regulator on it, so you could set the charge to 20v's, and then have a battery pac made up of 3- 6v batteries, and then have that hooked to your 8-pill...The separate alternator would just be used to charge the battery pac.

And if your using something like a 2-pill for a driver, have it wired in to your 12v system with your radio....You wouldn't want the driver and the main amp both running off 18v's... :wink:
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Post by North Texas Mudduck » Tuesday, 06 May 2008, 19:36 PM

in 2002 when i lived in graham texas i drove to lawton oklahoma and visited oldman 42 and met up with 427
he had high ouput alternator and wanted more volts so i set him up just like 228 stated only he dont have to pull the 6 volt out to charge it
i put in a inverter then got him a golf cart 6 volt charger set on 25 amps or can go up to 75 amps
plugged the inverter onto the 14.8 volt side then plugged the golfcart charger then hooked that up to the 6volt battery

no more pulling the 6 volt out to charge i almost built a mobile that would nearly cut my lips off.

all that in a ford ranger
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Post by roadrunner1 » Sunday, 20 July 2008, 8:55 AM

Hello all. Just wanted to say that my system is still kicking real strong in case anyone was wondering. I haven't had any issues or melt downs yet. I can take some pictures now, if anyone is interested in seeing the setup. Give me a shout.


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Post by PRO151 » Sunday, 20 July 2008, 9:21 AM

Please post the drawing. I am a curious person. :)
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Post by linx » Sunday, 20 July 2008, 11:04 AM

PRO151 wrote:Please post the drawing. I am a curious person. :)
Well, I can't find the drawing that WW228 did for me with a single 6v battery. The dual 6v setup is all over the site, but I think he drew the single 6v for me personally. The advantage of using 2x 6v is the 6v stays charged longer. But honestly, I am a bucket mouth and would talk days on the 6v without recharging it. The 6v charges separately, so the best thing I found to do was to install a trickle charger in your vehicle, then plug the 6v up every once in a while.

Do not try this with a Texas Star or some other PCB style amp. As a matter of fact, I probably would only do this to a pure comp amp like a DaveMade, Skywalker, EastCoast, etc. I heard some bad things about Fatboys popping pills locally but it's your choice. Always test your voltages with a good volt meter, and always run with caution. What you do, you are liable for, but trust me, if you get it worked out like I did, it's oohh so sweet.

I'm not good at paint, and this is a crude drawing I just made. His was much better.

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Post by slydog » Sunday, 20 July 2008, 11:15 AM

jessejamesdallas wrote:Yeah...It will work. As long as you have a amp that can handle being volted...Only problem I can see, is by having the 6v battery wired to the 12v like that, is when your truck is running, your still going to be sending a 14 volt charge into that 6v battery!

And if you leave it wired in like that all the time, your going to boil the 6v battery to death.

A better way to do it would be to have a separate charging alternator, that has a adjustable regulator on it, so you could set the charge to 20v's, and then have a battery pac made up of 3- 6v batteries, and then have that hooked to your 8-pill...The separate alternator would just be used to charge the battery pac.

And if your using something like a 2-pill for a driver, have it wired in to your 12v system with your radio....You wouldn't want the driver and the main amp both running off 18v's... :wink:
The 6 volt isn't being charged so it won't boil over. Some of the keydown guys around here call that "The poor man's volted system".
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Post by stagecoach » Sunday, 20 July 2008, 11:21 AM

not to contradict anyone but tell me again how a 6v will be boiled when it is floating ??????............and using 2 6v batt and put LC connectors on the charging system and dual them on both post of one of the 6v and single them on the other 6v and single them on the amp ...........note when charging......... the amp is on charging volts when volts are needed then it will be a 30 sec fix and you r able to charge your 6volts in the truck put a volt meter on the amp side of the hot feed note when changing from 12v to 18v disconnect the amp first........... ground is common so its simple you will know that when your ground is connected to your 6 volts that your will only have 12v available when on 18v no ground is connected to these 6volt batt. and until you are comfortable and understand what is happening only use 1 of the 6v to achieve your 18 v note the ground on the amp is also common no need to remove it from ground when changing from 12 to 18 volts..so for the new ppl trying to do this look at it as if it is water running ...........check this .....you have installed as suggested above and now you r charging with amp on the system @ 12 volts and you want to go to your 18 volt here is how in a few simple steps !st disconnect amp .........now disconnect the the line between the 2 6v and now disconnect your ground from the 6 volts and know disconnect the hot from from charging system.........still with me seems like a lot but the LC connectors will make this a 15 sec exchange now take the neg of the 6v and connect to the pos. of the charging feed or from the pos of the 12v system now the pos of the 6v that you just connected the neg of to the charging system will go to the pos of the amp note that the other 6 volt is completely out of the system when you are more familiar with this you can put both 6 v in line to give you a big 6v but using one will be better and you will have a hot 6v to back up the other by using only one ..........with this you r able to charge your 6v in the truck without other devises attach and by doing it this way you will be more familiar with your power system and fellas keep in mind that this is a hobby that is based on power source there is no substitute for the proper alt. in line as stated in other post on this thread but being familiar with your system is priceless and no matter what there is this thing called preventive maintenance lol so now this is only another way to achieve not better just another way do not forget the maint. note baking soda will neutralize batt acid another nice lil trick on batt. maint. is take and put a dab of grease on each of your batt the size of your thumb then put 3 pennies in the grease leave them there .....why????? well the fumes from the batt. acid will oxidized your copper board in your amps if they have copper boards and r exposed to these fumes always check all connectors

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Post by firefighter » Sunday, 20 July 2008, 11:28 AM

PRO151 wrote:Please post the drawing. I am a curious person. :)

basically, they are just wiring the batterys up in a series instead of in parallel....thats the same way alot of big trucks are done....instead of 1 12v, they use 2 6v....

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Post by stagecoach » Sunday, 20 July 2008, 11:38 AM

hey guys sorry for the long post above lol lol lol NOTE that when in a 18v application that the 6v will always be floating ......meaning that it is on the hot leg only the only time the ground is connected to the 6v batt or batteries is when you r charging and the 2 6v are connected to make 1 large 12v batt .......NEVER CONNECT A 18v BATT stack TO A 12v SYSTEM when to achieve the 18volts on a stock system the hot leg is all that is used ground is common take your time until more familiar this is not meant to contradict any other post but just a different way and i use this as a training method to new guys who want to learn more about high performance dc installations please do not forget the preventive maint. part it is vital to the longevity of your gear good luck .............................coach

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Post by stagecoach » Sunday, 20 July 2008, 12:28 PM

if wondering about the training method ????????? a lil reward in watts for for doing their maint. lol lol lol......note the pennies on the grease on each battery will cut back on the connectors corroding on the battery and will absorb the fumes b 4 they get to your box just a lil trick nothing new just thought i would pass it on ...........as for asking me to post drawings I'm not that good on the computer but even if i was i would not .......not to be rude and really not to be rude but if you cannot sit down and draw 4 separate boxes on a piece of paper and make the first the charging batt @ 12v and the next 2 @ 6v and the 4th as the amp put pos and neg on each of these box in the drawing and make the neg on the amp hook to ground and never move it and only achieve your 18v capability as i have instructed .......remember like running water .........on the hot leg only then you may not want to attempt this.........NOTE THIS IS FOR CLASS C AMPS ONLY DO NOT BURN YOUR AMP UP IF IT IS NOT CLASS C IT WILL BURN...... hey guys we are in a working on your stuff hobby and this is really not for everybody that is in this hobby have you ever notice the guys that put down on we few guys that like to get the best performance and try to learn the limitations of our equipment its capability and will go out and spend a couple of weekends trying to get that swr down even more once we have achieved a 1.5 swr lol lol well like i said its not for all that is in this hobby so if you happen to be one of these fellas that like to say neg. things then don;t waste your... mine... r anyone who is trying to learn something diff time just save it lol lol hell you might even figure out why the guy who cannot afford to run or buy new equipment you know the one you always calling a duck r as you like to refer to as your whipping boy is bumping on you at will lol lol so put down that 4th goat neck sandwhich and pay attn lol lol lol o k i was clowning a lil .....................coach ..............having a lil fun.......lol lol lol lol lol .............GROUNDSHAKER GROUNDSHAKER ..GONE ..............................

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Post by 998 » Sunday, 17 August 2008, 21:23 PM

Will this work on a stock 75 amp alternator with a stock 12 volt and a 6 volt added like say????? right now i know i could get more if i had a bigger alternator think im going to go bigger but just for now it works ..thinking bout trying it i have a 2x4 and it should really scream ... 73's J
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Post by linx » Monday, 18 August 2008, 2:45 AM

998 wrote:Will this work on a stock 75 amp alternator with a stock 12 volt and a 6 volt added like say????? right now i know i could get more if i had a bigger alternator think im going to go bigger but just for now it works ..thinking bout trying it i have a 2x4 and it should really scream ... 73's J
LOL, you really need a bigger alternator. There's not much substitution you should try other than maybe adding a few 12v batteries. That 2x4 pulls about 50 amps constant, and 110 amps or so surge. You may damage that amp severely.

Do not volt a 2x4 box. You should only volt a strait pill box or a 1x4. When you volt the 2x4, the 2 pill part is getting volted as well, and that's too much drive for the 4 pill portion. 2x4 boxes are generally made for 14v max, and are made for non-export radios.
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Post by BLACKMAGIC » Monday, 18 August 2008, 9:11 AM

How many more amps will a box pull from being volted. Im running an 8 pill on a 165 amp alternator and actually does a good job. Will it be pulling to many amps from being volted.

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Post by ringer » Monday, 18 August 2008, 10:18 AM

linx wrote:
998 wrote:Will this work on a stock 75 amp alternator with a stock 12 volt and a 6 volt added like say????? right now i know i could get more if i had a bigger alternator think im going to go bigger but just for now it works ..thinking bout trying it i have a 2x4 and it should really scream ... 73's J
LOL, you really need a bigger alternator. There's not much substitution you should try other than maybe adding a few 12v batteries. That 2x4 pulls about 50 amps constant, and 110 amps or so surge. You may damage that amp severely.

Do not volt a 2x4 box. You should only volt a strait pill box or a 1x4. When you volt the 2x4, the 2 pill part is getting volted as well, and that's too much drive for the 4 pill portion. 2x4 boxes are generally made for 14v max, and are made for non-export radios.
Why would it matter if it's an export or a cb?

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Post by DieselBoss » Monday, 18 August 2008, 12:12 PM

Ringer, you are going to find different opinions on this one.

With a well built comp amp, IMHO and my own experience, you can definitely use an export radio to drive a 2x4, depending on how you have your deadkey set, as well as how much peak wattage your radio is putting out.

As an example, I run a SWP General Lee into a DM 2x4 running at 14.2 volts. The General Lee is deadkeying ~1 watt into the amp, and swinging up to 50+ depending on what "feel good" meter you use. :wink:

I can run this all day long, (in fact I've been running this way for a year or so, and I use my radio A LOT) and it sounds fantastic while kicking the cat. Many, many, many others on this forum also run a General Lee into a 2x4.

The 2x4 might not be intended for an export, but it sure as heck works great if you are setup correctly (BELOW 1.3 SWR with MFJ-259B, fat power cables, great coax, perfectly adjusted dead key). I'll walk all over a single final radio driving the same amp, same antenna, and same voltage.

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Post by 998 » Monday, 18 August 2008, 12:22 PM

YEA I GOT MY 99V SET LOW AND IVE BEEN USING THIS 2X4 NO NAME SET UP FOR BOUT 5 YEARS AND NOT ONE PROBLEM EVEN WITH MY LIL ALTENATOR AND I KNOW I COULD DO BETTER BUT I GET OUT FINE BUT DONT WORRY NOW I KNOW WHERE TO GET ME A BIGGER ONE THATS MY NEXT STEP 73'S TO YOU ALL....


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Post by BLACKMAGIC » Tuesday, 19 August 2008, 11:02 AM

Well i just hooked up my 6v battery to try out this 18v deal. I did everything by the book but im not showing much more wattage. Could someone give me some input. Could it be pulling to much on my alternator?

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Post by linx » Tuesday, 19 August 2008, 11:25 AM

BLACKMAGIC wrote:Well i just hooked up my 6v battery to try out this 18v deal. I did everything by the book but im not showing much more wattage. Could someone give me some input. Could it be pulling to much on my alternator?
Hey BlackMagic, are you sure you hooked it up correctly? You need positive 12v to negative 6v. Positive 6v goes to amplifier.

I'd recommend using a good volt meter like a Fluke and testing to voltage before hooking it up to your amplifier. What are you showing right now on the voltmeter?
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Post by BLACKMAGIC » Tuesday, 19 August 2008, 11:44 AM

Thanks for the input linx. I definately have it hooked up correctly. I will have to check my voltage. Where do i check it at from 12v to 6v or 6v to amp.

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Post by linx » Tuesday, 19 August 2008, 11:57 AM

BLACKMAGIC wrote:Thanks for the input linx. I definately have it hooked up correctly. I will have to check my voltage. Where do i check it at from 12v to 6v or 6v to amp.
I'd check the 12v lead to make sure it's getting at least 12v, and then you need to check the negative of the 6v to see if it's getting 18 volts. For the ground, just ground it to anything that's a ground in your truck. It's good to keep a voltmeter, I keep 2 in my pickup at all times....but we have a fleet of vehicles as well.
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Post by BLACKMAGIC » Tuesday, 19 August 2008, 12:01 PM

Thanks again Linx. what kinda of wattage should i be seeing out of an 8 pill volted

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Post by sugarcane » Tuesday, 19 August 2008, 15:50 PM

That is so cool! and great info!! :wink: - Would this work only on a 1 box system?

How would you wire this up?

Radio ---> 2 x 2SC2290 ---> 6x 2SC2879 ---> 24 PILL

I dont' really want to push the *Censored* too much with voltage but just minimal to average but not max'd out. What is the best way to wire this up with just one 250 Amp alternator with an 800 motor *Censored* w/ a voltage regulator :?:

Please educated this poor man :!:

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Post by stagecoach » Tuesday, 19 August 2008, 18:03 PM

lol well Mr sugar cane how many batt. do you have on your motor *Censored* ....i recommend 8 on your *Censored* and i hope you are using the 250 as a extra alt ..??????........just so you know this will not apply in your application ........the 2 pill and the 6 pill need to run on stock volts..............i would recommend not running the 24 pill over 16 volts ..........still the 250 will have its hands full trying to support a amp that requires 420 amps of draw approx.......use good batt on the motor *Censored* at least 8 of them and you will have a pretty good system depending on the quality of the batt will determine how effective the motor *Censored* will support the 24 pill .................note when i said that this will not apply in you case i was referring to the *Censored* would be better for your system in my opinion ......good luck i know you will have fun with that toy ......lol .......stagecoach........................

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Post by 998 » Tuesday, 19 August 2008, 18:35 PM

Ok LINX im going to put my 1x2 back in the lil gocart then do you think i will be able to volt it cause on fat boys site my altenator should work it looks like i can but i dont want to go wrong and thanks for all the info and not letting me blow my box up !!! GOOD LOOKING OUT.... and i got pics but dont know where they go i thought i saw a place for them the other day but not i cant find it lol 73's to you all.... :D
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Post by linx » Wednesday, 20 August 2008, 3:01 AM

998 wrote:Ok LINX im going to put my 1x2 back in the lil gocart then do you think i will be able to volt it cause on fat boys site my altenator should work it looks like i can but i dont want to go wrong and thanks for all the info and not letting me blow my box up !!! GOOD LOOKING OUT.... and i got pics but dont know where they go i thought i saw a place for them the other day but not i cant find it lol 73's to you all.... :D
998, I'm a little mixed on my feelings about Fatboys. There's a local guy that can't run his over 15 volts or it blows ever pill in the box. Then again there's folks on here that run 18 volts on fatboy's all day. I definitely say use a good volt meter, and please do this at your own discretion. I don't want to be responsible because one box may be built inferior to another. Fatboy's are good boxes, and I'm not saying they're not.
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Post by sugarcane » Wednesday, 20 August 2008, 7:36 AM

stagecoach wrote:lol well Mr sugar cane how many batt. do you have on your motor *Censored* ....i recommend 8 on your *Censored* and i hope you are using the 250 as a extra alt ..??????........just so you know this will not apply in your application ........the 2 pill and the 6 pill need to run on stock volts..............i would recommend not running the 24 pill over 16 volts ..........still the 250 will have its hands full trying to support a amp that requires 420 amps of draw approx.......use good batt on the motor *Censored* at least 8 of them and you will have a pretty good system depending on the quality of the batt will determine how effective the motor *Censored* will support the 24 pill .................note when i said that this will not apply in you case i was referring to the *Censored* would be better for your system in my opinion ......good luck i know you will have fun with that toy ......lol .......stagecoach........................
4-10 stagecoach!! :D

Yes, will get 8 batteries (12 volts each), and yes will be running the 250 amp alternator as a separate charging system for the 8 batteries. Also, will run the 24 pill at least 14-15 volts only.

You thought me well, Mr. Stagecoach.. thank you so much for your time, sir. :wink:

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Post by roadrunner1 » Saturday, 13 December 2008, 20:14 PM

Hello all. Its been a while but I just logged in and felt like sharing my status with my volted amp and I am still rocking Houston with my little 8 pill running in a 4 cylinder Saturn with a 102 whip mounted on a triple magnet on the roof and a small 4 pill driver from a Cobra 200 radio on low power and it bangs 2900 plus on my Astatic with a 400 dk and maintains 2500 as long as I'm revved up past 1400 or 1500 rpm. 6 volt battery isn't holding the charge as long as it use to since I started this project almost a year ago but I'll just buy another battery maybe next month and the charge will last a couple weeks at a time without recharging again. My 8 pill is a custom built box with everything being over done on an etched board also so its not like a Sweet Sixteen or even a Fatboy for that matter so I don't recommend this for every type of box although Fatboy and Davemade's should take the volts just fine. I'm using 9913 coax which provides the cleanest power out of the antenna and handles the watts. LMR400 coax works great too. RG213 coax didn't cut it for me. This site won't let me upload a picture yet so I'll post a picture on one of my websites at shudyconsulting.com/amp2.jpg. Its a bit crowded on my passenger floor board but it works for me as I didn't want to run more wire than I had to and I use the back for other stuff. You can see the 6 volt battery box and the amp and the small driver amp is hidden behind the battery box.

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Re: ww228kidd 18V project works!

Post by StinkyFinger » Sunday, 15 February 2009, 19:50 PM

For what its worth, I ran my TNT 600 Plus at 18Volts for quite a long time with no problems. Its a MRF455 driving 8 2SC2290 pills. I know the MRF455 is not supposed to be volted but at only like $20, if I cook it then I'll just replace it and figure things out then. Maybe jumper past the 455 and add a modulator to drive the 8 pills. Until then I will hook it back up to 18volts when I get it into my truck (I took a 10 yr CB break for those that didn't read my newby post).

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Re: ww228kidd 18V project works!

Post by Crusher » Wednesday, 10 June 2009, 16:45 PM

Running an amp at a constant 20+ volts, i don't care who's amp it is it will not last long. It will either burn up or watch it blow the tops right off the transistors. I have done it many times myself during early testing. The 2879 is rated at 18 volts max> anything past that and you are on your own. Having said that, yes it can be volted higher, but you better keep the DK low and let it swing. High DK and overvolting will cause smoke quick. Less than a 10 second keydown to be exact.

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Re: ww228kidd 18V project works!

Post by MECHMAN » Thursday, 11 June 2009, 7:30 AM

You could just as easily run one of our adjustable voltage alternators and a stepdown box for the truck. That way your 6V battery would actually get charged.

If you really wanted to be legit, you could use a Powermaster 16 volt battery ($259) and you wouldn't have to worry about imballanced charging. It would be a lot cleaner too.

With that setup you would have 17.2 volts at rest, 19.0 volts with the engine running. You would then have a 14.5 volt ouput coming out of the stepdown box to run to the truck so that the voltage isn't too high.

I realize it's more money that what you have in your budget setup, but it would work a whole lot better, and yo uwould never have to put anything on a charger. Just a thought.

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Re:

Post by -=PEAKABOO=- » Saturday, 19 December 2009, 21:06 PM

slydog wrote:
The 6 volt isn't being charged so it won't boil over. Some of the keydown guys around here call that "The poor man's volted system".

Yep, people have been doing it that way around here since probably the 80's
"Trying not to choke on that 10 ohm smoke"



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Re: ww228kidd 18V project works!

Post by Crisco » Tuesday, 21 June 2011, 7:13 AM

what 6v battery are yall using exactly.

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Re: ww228kidd 18V project works!

Post by Crisco » Tuesday, 21 June 2011, 10:34 AM

oh and has anyone thought of having two voltage paths. one off the 12vsys and one off the 18v with a switch to select which one you want to run that is what i want to do but i cant find a switch for doing that exactly any ideas would be welcomed.


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